Hakuna Matata

 Yabello in the distance

Red Soil that reminds me of PEI
minus the SUPER dry factor...

As a child, the lion king was one of my all-time favorite movies—perhaps not to the same extend of one of my good friend’s whose parents recount how she watched it on repeat waiting for her older sister to return home when she first started school!—nonetheless I knew every word to every song and always dreaded the scene when Mufasa was  trampled to death! As a child I saw the ‘Lion Kingdom’ as a far off, distant, or imagined land. Last week myself and four coworkers made the TWELVE hour journey to Yabello in Southern Ethiopia( Aprx 200km from Kenya). I had never been to a similar area, with Acacia trees and termite towers, sparsely dispersed across the arid plains of red soil, cratered along the edges of the road as evidence of the rainy season which ended a month early, and the mountains in the distance. Yet, on the way to visit a community project just outside of the main town, there was one particular turn we took, where the narrow road hugged the corner of a mountain which overlooked the entire valley bellow and as CHEESY as it sounds I was brought back to my childhood and instantly thought of the famous scene where Mufasa sat looking over the rich land beyond him and Simba and said ‘Everywhere the light touches, this is our kingdom’. It was one of those moments where you have to ask yourself “Is this real life”? Or who am I to be so fortunate to experience such variety in life? This particular day I was tasked with interviewing two members of a Gum and Incense cooperative group. I was thrilled to be able to finally put a human face and personal stories to the program reports I had been reviewing in the office.

A termite creation...

Interviewing someone—asking open ended questions and trying to make someone feel comfortable enough to share the details of their reality— in ones native tongue is a challenge in and of itself, working with a translator added an extra layer of interesting to the process! But as the morning drew on, I gradually became more comfortable with the process and am hopeful that the case stories I will write from the material gained will to justice and adequately represent the work and learning’s of those I interviewed!

One of the coop-women asked if we
could take a picture! 

Working with the translator was hardly my only encounter with language immersion. While I am doing my best to pick up the basics of Amharic (and can now hear many familiar words if I listen closely enough to conversations around me!) I would be lying if I didn’t say that I had NO IDEA what the plan was 85% of the time we were away. All of the co-workers I was with were Ethiopian and while they would do their best to include me in conversation, I found that people naturally return to their native language, especially when tired.  My friend and I joke that experiences such as having no idea why the car is pulling over, or finding out that the reason you never received a menu at lunch was because you have been ordered a traditional meal already, will only serve to make us the most easy going people possible! While I still haven’t be able to let go completely of trying to figure out what’s happening, I try to limit the amount of questions I ask knowing that my coworkers have thus far only had my best interest in mind. I am also hopeful that if I keep practicing my Amharic, by the end of my stay I will know without having to ask that when we randomly pull over on the side of the highway its because someone wants to buy strawberries!

On another note, Yabello also extended my questioning of the relationship between Ethiopians and outsiders/ International organizations… what role do we play? The Borena Zone of Southern Ethiopia, where Yabello is located, is highly drought prone and as a result is one of the areas with a high density of AID organizations and NGOs. To paint the picture a little more, on the 7km drive from the main highway to the town center there are field offices for; UNFAO, World Vision, Save the Children, USAID and a few other less known organizations.

What is a group of camels
called? A herd?

The image which resonates in my mind and really hammered home this whole idea of a clash of worlds for me was a local man walking down the side of the road with his two camels who were carrying a   What were the stipulations? As always many, many questions and very few answers was what I was left with. Needless to say I wont soon forget those two camels.

load (bear in mind that while on its own this is a new visual for me! it is typical of the area) but furthermore upon closer examination I noticed that the packs the camels were carrying were labeled USAID. A flurry of questions instantly flew threw my mind; how long has this man been receiving AID? What was in the pack? Would be starve without the assistance? Was it creating dependence?

Much love,

Steph x

As always if you have any comments or questions please feel free to e-mail me at: 

steph.milo.mackinnon@gmail.com

Just a couple of pictures of the Amaro Mountainside on route to Yabello (aprx 150-200km closer to Addis) and some donkeys...

Cultural Crossroads

One of the benefits of being in Ethiopia is that it is very much situated at a cross-roads; not only in terms of some of the worlds great religions, but also culturally. Baring influences from North and East Africa as well as the Middle East. This religious diversity shows its face in the countries many rich historical sites from Lalibella- which boast a collection of famous  12^th/13^th Century monolithic rock-cut churches (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lalibela), to Axum, which is where many believe the Holy Grail is housed (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/15)  and Harar in  the East is acclaimed as the Fourth holiest city for Muslims after Mecca/Medina/Jerusalem.

So what does all of this diversity mean for me on a daily basis, as I am living in Addis not amongst the churches or historical walled cities? Honestly it means a lot of things, but on a simple level it means A LOT of different types of food readily available! Yes I have finally decided to write about food!

Earlier this week, I went out for an awesome Lebanese meal with some other intern friends. It turns out that another man living in our compound is actually a Lebanese man who works/sings at the Restaurant, he invited out German friends to the Restaurant on Monday and so the event was set. Naturally we then invited our friend Yasmine, who is also a CIDA intern but grew up in Beirut. Her presence at dinner was a MASSIVE asset! When she first spoke Arabic to the restaurant manager his face light up and they both immediately started speaking a million miles a minute, hands enthusiastically moving at the same pace… if you thought Italians spoke with their hands a lot, you obviously haven’t encountered an excited Lebanese exchange!

The rest of us sat and watched the exchange without a clue of what was being discussed… something we have all grown used to living/working in a foreign city. We had faith in Yasmine though, as she had given us a mouth-watering description of every item on the menu, with details of how it’s prepartion/presentation differs from region to region. Eventually the excited manager left and Yasmine caught us up! A ton of appetizers, Mezzas, were ordered and soon after came with enough pita bread to sink a ship. We also learned that you are to separate the sides of the bread and use them to eat the different delicious apps; which ranged from Tabouleh, to a bean dish, hummus, babaganoush and many others. I also learned that LEMON is beyond key, and an absence of olives is almost insulting!

The experience overall was fantastic, it was quite possibly the most delicious meal, with the most diverse amount of flavors I have had since being in Addis. I also feel very fortunate to have found a friend in Yasmine as she is very eager to tell stories of Lebanon and its culture and I am eager to learn. My grandfather’s parents emigrated from Northern Lebanon and while I have very fond childhood memories of huge family gatherings with obnoxious amounts of food, I feel that as the family has aged I have very much lost touch with my Lebanese roots! Who would have known I would reconnect with them while in Addis?

Lebanese food is however only one of the many options available here in Addis. Within walking distance from my office/home there is German, French, Armenian, and TONS of Italian food available. I never ever thought I would say it but I may actually be tired of Pasta and Pizza by the time I leave! But lets be honest, the best pizza I have had thus far, is conveniently served in the building directly beside my office! 

And yes ETHIOPIAN food. I have been saving the best for last! It is its own unique can of worms. First I think it is necessary to describe the staple food; injera. It looks like a biiiiiig pancake, kind of? But in reality it is a thin, often incredibly yeasty bread. It is served on a big silver platter, where you unroll it and pour different sauces (wot’s) on top. The best part, and the most difficult at first, is that you eat it WITH YOUR HANDS, you pull off pieces of injera  and dip it in the sauce/pick up pieces of meat or veggies. Ethiopians, who have been eating injera their entire lives make this practice look effortless. It is definitely not as easy as it looks, especially as it is considered rude if your left hand touches your food! 

Another interesting aspect of Ethiopian dinning culture is the many, many fasting days (Both Orthodox and Muslim). At first I thought this meant NO eating. But the reality is that it means no animal products… aka vegan. There are long fasting periods, which last for weeks, but every Wednesday and Friday are also fasting days. This has proven to make life easy when choosing to dine out Ethiopian style, as it is much easier to say you are fasting in a foreign language than explain why you just do not want to eat meat for fear it may upset your stomach -definitely less culturally offensive! And the fasting dish, Fasting Bianatu, is amazing! You get a big tray of Injera with six different Vegan sauces to dip into; two lentil variations, pickled beets, potatoes and spinach amongst other things. All Ethiopians feel the need to warn the foreigners that the food will be “spicy” and yes they like to throw in the odd hot pepper, but as foreigners we have to be careful that they don’t just eliminate the peppers for fear it will be too hot for us!

Now the Coffee, an Ethiopian meal would not be complete without a proper coffee ceremony to cap it all off. When I first heard coffee ceremony, yes I expected elaborate dancing and singing centered around coffee… but I was way off. Nonetheless it is still great, the coffee beans are roasted and ground down on the spot and then warmed in a traditional clay pot. When it is ready to be served a women, often traditionally dressed will bring the clay pot, with incents and popcorn to your table, carefully pouring coffee into each espresso sized cups.

Each region boasts its coffee’s superiority. I have realized that not only is the coffee substantially stronger here BUT also that there are many different types of coffee, much like I only understand the basics of Wine, my palate is unable to note the discrete differences between the different types of coffee. However, I do enjoy my morning Macchiato which sets me back aprx. 50c Canadian. It took me about a week to realize why the Macchiato my co-workers would order for me were substantially better than ones I ordered myself. Much like the spicy issue, I realized that the servers’ assumed I wanted more milk than coffee. I have since learned the Amharic word for “black” Macchiato, ‘Tocar’ and needless to say it has made my Macchiato experience consistently more enjoyable, and often allows the server an opportunity to laugh at my pitiful attempt to pronounce the word!

Much love,

Steph x

As always if you have any comments or questions please feel free to send me an e-mail at: steph.milo.mackinnon@gmail.com 

Thanks again to all who have:) 

Mountains Beyond Mountains - A taste of Southern Ethiopia

I would never describe myself as an art enthusiast, yet when traveling I tend to migrate to the classic ‘must see’ museums. And while I would be lying if I said I understood even a fraction of the art I’ve seen, I have appreciated it. One of the particular exhibits that continues to stand out in my memory was that of Salvador Dali’s in Montmartre, Paris. It was a simple, modest set up located amidst narrow winding streets, coffee shops, colorful graffiti walls and overgrown ivy. Well the character of the neighborhood distinguished the experience in and of itself if was my understanding of Dali’s notion of time that stuck with me the most. His famous melting clock appears in many of his famous pieces but it first appeared in his piece titled ‘The Persistence of Memory’.

'The Persistence of Memory'

The caption under the sculpture reads:

 As the watch liquefies over the tree, it forms into a human profile, underlying the interminable relationship between man and time. The unexpected softness of the watch also represents the psychological aspect whereby time, whilst considered to be precise and fixed in its nature, can, in fact vary significantly in human perception. All men must bend to the passing of time.

My third row oasis 

So where does Dali fit into my experience in Ethiopia? Well last week myself and four other Oxfam staff made the 450km journey to Amaro for the inauguration of a 'Bulla'* Processing Center. As we drove the winding road through the lush green mountainous Ethiopian countryside I became lost in my thoughts while lounging in my third row set up. On June 1st I boarded the plan in Halifax, while I was filled with nerves and excitement for the journey that lay ahead, I also had to take many deep breaths and try to convince myself that six months wasn't the eternity it felt like in that moment. Sitting in the third row of Oxfam's SUV I found it hard to fathom that an entire month of my stay had already flown by! Ethiopia has quickly come to feel like my home and December often feels like it is just around the corner. Thus rather than wondering how I will make it until then, I find myself asking if I will be able to see and do all the things I'd like to in such a 'SHORT amount of time'.

Around Dilla on route to Amaro

While Dali's notion of time lingered in my thoughts, curious as how it was possible that this shift in my perception of time had occurred, other ideas from my past also flowed through my wondering mind. I firmly believe our experiences shape the way we view the world and I feel incredible fortunate to continue to have experiences, which challenge my perspective of the world. My question however is, what makes certain memories or moments stick? Or in other words become part of our framework shaping the way we view the world, while others pass us by never to be considered again.

Camels hanging out.. 

While I feel more than incapable of answering this question I couldn’t help but feel that as we continued to wind down the road –passing all sorts of new visuals for me, from camels stopping for a snack, to young men playing ping-pong with there donkey impassively watching beside them—my thoughts instantly went to a childhood road trip game when I saw a white horse. As kids our parents always told my brother and I that if you saw a white horse it was good luck to keep your fingers crossed until you saw a dog. My brother and I would silently peer out the window as the minutes of the journey passed by. Years later, to our disappointment, we found out it was one of our parents creative tricks to keep us quite/ calm us down on long drives, one if I may say so myself that proved to be substantially more effective than ‘lets see who can be quiet the longest’. Regardless of the fact that I knew it was all a myth, I childishly kept my fingers crossed, eyes peeling for a dog. This made me think that there are certain aspects of life that are able to transgress borders, oceans, ethnicities, religions and languages. Perhaps it was a childish sense of family I was craving while in the Ethiopian Mountains thousands of miles from the salty shores of Nova Scotia, its hard to say really... but I do know that if my parents early tricks to keep my brother and I quite were true BOY would I be a lucky girl! There are a LOT of white horses and dogs between Addis and Amaro :)

Tasha and I in Amaro! 

Aside from being lost in my own head there were plenty of things that made the three day journey more than enjoyable! I have realized that trying to learn new Amharic words is always a source of great laughter even if it is directed at me. Ones of my favorite words I learned while in Ghana was Ngolo, this translates to LIAR, a word one shouldn’t casually throw around, as honor and respect are of the utmost importance in many Ghanaian cultures. But with my minimal (at best) grasp of the Dangme language I used to use the word ‘Ngolo’ as my basic humor tool. When I told this story to my Ethiopian colleagues with whom I traveled, they thought it was a riot to say the least and immediately took to teaching me less than relevant Amharic words, starting naturally with liar and moved too things such as “shhh” “watch yourself” and “im done with you” which is expressed in one quick sound, that I am told is NOT a ‘T’ sound but am convinced the sound does not exist in english… to me it sounds like “et-ch”. My language lessons.. or the game of 'lets see if the foreigner can say this one' created perpetual laughter in the car as we drove along. And even though the majority of the laughs were at my expense I do feel that I have actually picked up a bit more Amharic in the process and I very much look forward to my next visit to the field-- which I am told could be as early as next week! 

Amaro women demonstrating new technologies

The inauguration we attended was also quite nice, it was wonderful to bare witness to the celebration of  a project successful completion. There were many more people in attendance than I had anticipated prior to arriving (aprx 75). They were all sorts of representatives from partner organizations, government officials and Amaro community members. Those present had participated in the various phases of the Agricultural projects in Amaro. The day was a celebration of much more than solely a processing centre. The projects in Amaro, spearheaded by Agri Service Ethiopia, had included many training and educational sections and all those involved we hopeful for the future impact on the community! 

As always please feel free to send me your thoughts, questions, comments etc! steph.milo.mackinnon@gmail.com

Much love,
Steph xx